Bringing your fur baby home

Set up the “cat room” with everything they’ll need. If you’re bringing your cat home on the same day as adoption, leave the cat in the carrier while you get things ready. You’ll want to give your cat somewhere safe to hide, like a big box turned on its side, or leave the carrier open and covered, but block off any tiny spots that may be unsafe or where you might not be able to find them later. 

When the room is quiet, open the carrier door so the cat can walk out independently. If your cat doesn’t immediately walk out to say hello - that’s okay! Cats can be easily overwhelmed in new spaces, so you’ll want to take things slowly and follow your cat’s lead. Patience is key.

Sit on the floor and let the cat come to you. Don’t force things; the cat should always be the first one to initiate. Avoid pulling the cat out of their safe spot if it is hiding. Use toys and treats to encourage the cat to engage or play. If the cat walks away, they’re letting you know it’s time for a break, but you can hang out for a while or check back later!

Once your cat shows interest in trying to leave the room or is begging at the door to come out, they’re ready to explore the rest of the house! Most cats will adjust within one to two weeks. If you have a multiple-animal household, it may take several months for everyone to fully adjust. 

Your cat won’t come out of hiding: Some cats need longer acclimations. Help your cat relax by providing new hiding spaces in the middle of the room, which can help draw them out from corners or under the bed. Use treats, toys, or a cat pheromone spray, like Feliway, to increase your bond.

Your cat didn’t eat or use the litter box*: This is a common stress reaction. Try sitting with your cat at mealtime or using an extra stinky snack to peak their interest. If your cat is still not interested, try reducing traffic in and out of the room. They may need it to be quieter during visits to feel safe, and they may need the same person to visit them so they become comfortable. 

Your cat is hissing or growling: Cats may hiss or swat when feeling scared or overwhelmed. Give your cat some private time and make visits short and positive, leaving behind a few yummy snacks or a new toy. Please see our undersocialized kitten sheet for more information on acclimating kittens.

Cats should go no longer than 48 hours without eating or using the litter box. Please reach out to your veterinarian IMMEDIATELY if lack of appetite continues.

Scratching is an instinct that allows cats to mark their territory, play, release frustration, and keep their claws healthy. Keep your favorite sofa safe, and give your cat something else to scratch!

A wide variety of scratching post options are available: horizontal, vertical, sisal rope, cardboard, and more. Try a few options and find the type and texture your cat prefers. If you choose a vertical post, ensure it’s sturdy enough for your cat to stretch and hold their weight. Place the post in a prominent location of your home and consider your cat’s favorite scratching spots. Place a scratcher nearby if your cat favors couch corners or always scratches by the door. Meg's cattery has a carpet wall, and YES, your kitten loved it!!!

If your cat isn’t interested in its new scratching post, try enticing it with catnip or gently pressing its paws against it. This will release pheromones in their paws and encourage investigation.

If you catch your cat scratching the wrong spot, don’t discipline it—this could make things worse. Redirect the scratching post and praise it when you see appropriate scratching. Make your favorite furniture scratching spots undesirable by covering them with double-sided sticky tape or aluminum foil or lightly spraying the area with the cat to its lemon scent or Feliway.

Regular nail trimmings also reduce scratching. You’ll want to start this training immediately and give your cat time to get used to having their paws touched. Start by handling your cat’s paws regularly. Cat paws are very sensitive, so you’ll want to do this gently relaxed, and work up to extending the nail. Start with one nail at a time and respect your cat’s limits. Reward sessions with treats and praise! Use clippers designed for cats and only trim the tip, always cutting above the quick (pinkish area) inside the nail. If your cat remains stubborn about nail trimmings, see if your vet can help with a trim.

Declawing your cat is not the answer to inappropriate scratching. Declawing is a painful procedure that amputates part of the cat’s toes. Declawing can cause litter box problems, changes in personality, and even arthritis and back pain. With patience, you can overcome scratching frustrations without declawing.